Scotland – far more than bagpipes and haggis.
Jon Hartley gives his personal view on his past and present experiences.
As we have already covered the Northern and Western Isles, I plan to cover the Inner Hebrides and the mainland, and like most parts of Britain, it is as varied as you wish to make it.
The Lowlands.
Or to put it another way, anything south of the Great Glen, which is the line from Fort William to Inverness.
The majority of journeys will take clients up the M6 to Carlisle, and then onto the M74. They have already driven through the Cheviot Hills, but as the land levels out near to the border, Gretna Green is waiting to greet them. We all know (I hope) of the marriages confirmed over the blacksmiths anvil, and tourist shops and cafe’s cope well with the thousands of visitors every year. What is a shame is that the coaches continue northward, and miss the opportunity to either turn left towards Dumfries and follow the coast to Stranraer (although the road can be very busy and is mostly single carriageway), or north eastward, and from Moffet travel via Biggar towards Edinburgh, skirting the Pentland Hills.
Whichever route you take, and whether you pass the Pentland or Lowther Hills (by the M74) or the coast road, there is no mistake where you are as the scenery is unique. As the cosmopolitan area starts around Motherwell and Hamilton, where no doubt the driver is trying to explain the strange mausoleum that suddenly appears near to Hamilton Services – it’s the Hamilton family mausoleum with one of the longest echo’s of any man made structure in the world – the first views of Glasgow may not be seen as the best on the tour!
Glasgow is often seen as a harsh or even rough city, and in my years of being based there nothing could have been further from the truth. A harsh accent maybe, but a genuine friendliness and willing to help was the norm. Rich in history, the drive through the city should really be a stop in the city, as Glasgow has an industrial heritage that is one to be very proud of, and the entrepreneurs that made money form it also remembered their roots, and left vast art collections to the city fathers. One of these, the Burrell collection, consisted of over 8000 items, and the shipping magnate’s efforts is displayed in the woodland setting of Pollock Park. Scotland’s most visited attraction is Kelvingrove Museum, and has no less than 22 state of the art galleries to explore.
Now before I go further, a word about Scottish hotels that caters for groups. Be very, very careful what you book. Over the past ten years many have changed hands, and with mixed results. Some are very good. Some are a little tired, some are tired but make up for it with excellent food and service, and it has to be said – some are not up to it. PLEASE, for the sake of your company’s reputation and that of your clients, only book hotels you have either seen for yourself – recently, those recommended by a wholesaler who has inspected them recently, or those recommended by a trustworthy friend – who has seen them recently. The star rating is all well and good, but a coach holiday operator has to look further, so I would see the star rating as a guide, not a promise.
So here we are heading for the Erskine Bridge with the River Clyde on our right. Over 100,000 people used to work in the shipyards here, and for over 200 years manufactured some of Britain’s most famous ships – including The Lusitania, HMS Hood, and of course the Queen Mary ,Queen Elizabeth, and the Royal Yacht Britannia. Look out for the latest part of the regeneration of Clydebank next year when the new Riverside Museum will celebrate the part the city has played in shipbuilding.
Some coaches will continue to their destinations from here, but other may need an overnight halt, or are staying on the outskirts of the city. Cosmopolitan Hotels have two in the area, The Erskine Bridge Hotel, and The Normandy. Both are well used by coach operators, and Steve Ireland, the Managing Director is a well known figure at Trade Shows, as indeed is my next hotelier, David Warnes, who is your host at The Winnock in Drymen. No need to visit this hotel, as your only problem may be getting space in the first place! If every hotelier could match David’s exacting standards the contractor’s life would be so much easier.
Older hands will see the road around Loch Lomond as a motorway compared with twenty years ago, but it can still catch you out, and it is not too unusual to see motorists exchanging names and addresses. The road will take you to Tarbet, where Shearings have one of their hotels, and then the choice is to either keep left to Arrochar – with its selection of hotels, or turn right towards Crianlarich. Here the road passes the railway station, one of the halts on the Glasgow to Oban line, which passes through stunning scenery at a sedate and sensible rate of knots.
Only a couple of miles on we are in Tyndrum, where the road forks left to Loch Awe and Oban, or right to Glen Coe and Fort William.
If time permits, the Hydroelectric Scheme at Cruachan by Loch Awe is a very interesting place to visit, as you can take a minibus into the heart of the mountain to see the four giant turbines at work. During the night they pump water up the mountain to a reservoir, and during the day when electricity is needed the water returns via the turbines to produce power. When it first opened you could take your own coach down there, but that didn’t last for too long, and now it’s a £6 minibus journey.
Oban, not only one of Scotland’s main resorts, but gateway to the isles via the services of Caledonian MacBrayne, is Argyll’s jewel in the crown, and is perhaps the most popular coach destination. Hotels vary – a lot – and your choice is as varied as your budget!
Oh how I miss the nights in the 1970’s when the drivers would meet up in The Park Hotel (long gone) to watch the sunset over the bay as Billy Ford with his snare drum and Colin Campbell on his accordion played into the night. We used to take bets at what stage Colin would fall off his stool, as he, as they say, used to enjoy a wee dram, but he always came up smiling and hardly missed a note!
Sunsets on the west coast of Scotland are always something special, and many are captivated by the scene. They can also be captivated by the selection of seafood on offer, and it can be well worth forgoing your hotel dinner to go into one of the local restaurants to get a true taste of the sea.
From Oban many take the 45 minute ferry to the Isle of Mull, where not only is there a very good hotel, the Isle of Mull Hotel, part of the Crerar group, but it is also the route to explore the Isle of Iona, famed for its links with St Columba. To the north of Mull we find Tobermory, aka Balamory on the children’s television series of the same name.
Both of these Inner Hebredean Isles are well worth the visit, and are a popular day’s excursion from Oban.
When we left Tyndrum the other road was heading northward, and will take us over Rannoch Moor dropping into Glen Coe, the site of the massacre ( 38 in the massacre and a further thirty died of exposure as they fled the three hamlets involved), by the Campbell’s on the MacDonald’s in 1692. I am reliably advised that is wasn’t the massacre that caused the problem; it was the betrayal of highland hospitality, where guests turned on their hosts. In highland law this is unforgivable.
Crossing the old rail bridge at Ballahulish leads us to drive alongside Loch Linnhe to Fort William. I am a little surprised more use isn’t made of the sleeper train that terminates here, as you can get on in Euston one evening, and wake up to stunning scenery en route.
The town itself I always think is back to front, as the main street – full of touristy shops – back onto the loch rather than faces it. No matter, I don’t live there and I am sure they know what they are doing. Plenty of group accommodation space here too, with Strathmore having the lovely Alexandria by the town centre and the Ben Nevis on the outskirts. The latter getting its name from the highest point in the British Isles, which overlooks the town. Fort William is a great location for excursions too, including the wonderful journey by road or rail to Mallaig, where a couple of hotels cater for groups.
We are however continuing northward to the Kyle of Lochalsh, and the bridge over to the Isle of Skye. Sorry Skye, but whenever I think of you, I think of midges. This isn’t fair I know, as I should be thinking of The Cullin Hills, the lovely little town of Portree, or for those of you that know me – the micro brewery in Uig. Now it is some years since I was on Skye (and I still miss the ferry), so the hotels both on Skye itself and The Kyle are unknown to me. Time for you to find an honest opinion if you are planning a tour.
Still heading northward, and some of the road is single track, we make our way to Achnasheen, a true highland village, set in the middle of nowhere, with a small hotel and a railway station. Here, again, decisions have to be made, as Gairloch and Poolewe are to our left, and Dingwall and Inverness to our right. But we are still heading north (there are two ways to head north, but to save confusion we are going the ‘pretty’ way), so Gairloch it is then.
Plenty of blue coaches around here, as Shearings own the Gairloch Hotel, but the further north we get, the quieter the roads and more stunning the views.
When you reach Poolewe, you have found one of Scotland’s hidden treasures, The National Trust for Scotland’s Inverewe Gardens.) One of if not the tourist destinations of the area, don’t be put off by the size of the car and coach park, as it is still possible to find an oasis of tranquillity in this highland setting.
So by whichever route you took, we are now in Ullapool, (choice of hotels – my usual comments apply). From here we can take the Calmac ferry to the Outer Hebrides, or as we are doing – you’ve guessed it, continue northward. If you get time when in Ullapool, take a walk by the cottages just past the ferry terminal as the ferry comes in. You will be amazed how close to the land it gets, proving just how deep the water is at this point. Many a photograph is taken here, and when shown people ask about your telephoto lens – none needed!
When you reach Ledmore it is possible to cut off the most western part of Scotland, but I urge you not to, as this is where eagles dare and the deer are dear, wild countryside, often quite barren, as we reach the little hamlet of Durness, before swinging eastward through Tongue to Thurso. Now this is quite a hike even in a car, and rest stops are far and few between. Good planning is called for, but I would at least recommend The Tongue Hotel for a tea stop. This little three star hotel in Sutherland is unique in so many ways, but prebooking is essential.
You may see the signs for Scrabster, which is just outside Thurso, and the harbour is where the North Link ferry terminates from The Orkney Isles. Thurso itself is the main town for the region, and has several hotels that can accommodate groups. The largest of which, The Royal, is part of the Oxford Inns group, and is well known to operators. That is not to rule out The Weigh Inn, The Station, The St Claire or The Pentland, but again, it is some years since I last visited them.
We could hardly visit Thurso without driving to John o’ Groats. En route you will pass the village of Dunnet, which gives its name to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on the British mainland, and the Castle of Mey, the Queen Mother’s home in the highlands.
John o’ Groats, the most north westerly point of the British mainland and the furthest away from Lands End, is the home to several small shops selling pottery, candles and the usual tourist memorabilia, and also where you can catch the ferry to Berwick on Orkney. This can be done as a day excursion, and is extremely popular with groups from Thurso.
Heading southward now (who said about time too?), I must admit to this being one of my favourite journeys. From the bleak peaty northlands we soon join the coast road, and green pastureland. With the dramatic coastline we travel towards Inverness, but I can never get the car to pass the Glenmorangie Distillery near to Tain! Odd isn’t it? Even worse, as I approach Inverness the car takes itself to Moniack Castle. Their home made products – Plum Brandy Liqueur, Sloe Gin, Pickles, Marmalades and Jelly is a taste to behold.
We are bypassing Strathpeffer, home of many a coach tour, with a good choice of hotels – you maybe you shouldn’t. Surrounded by woodland and with a lovely village centre, it is easy to see why this highland village has proved so popular from Victorian times. It has a quiet charm, and draws hundreds of English visitors every year.
So we cross the Kessock Bridge over the mouth of the River Ness, and enter the Capital of the Highlands. Split by the river and with good quality hotels aplenty, this is an easy place to explore on foot, with many fine shops and attractions. The Ness bubbles its way towards the sea, and just to sit by it seems to drag your troubles away – although if you were on a coach holiday you shouldn’t be having any.
Many of the hotels overlook the river, and it makes that evening stroll after dinner so much the nicer.
The road down the side of the loch can take you to Drumnadrochit, and the famous Urqhart Castle, reputedly to be a one of the deepest part of Loch Ness. Is there a monster? Well, it hasn’t been disproved has it? There are several Nessie type exhibitions, but the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre by the side of the Drumnadrochit hotel offers a very good souvenir shop too, and even better, a Whisky Shop. This really does specialise not only in the regular brands, but some limited availability ones too.
Some operators are offering the return journey to Inverness via one of the Jacobite Cruise ships, which offer a selection of opportunities to add something different to your itinerary.
Near to Inverness is the site of the battle of Colluden, which has a recently opened (2007) new visitor centre and exhibition. I am informed that whilst the English hardly came out of it smelling of roses, the Jacobite forces were mainly highlanders, and the government forces lowlanders, but whatever the battle it is of course the carnage afterwards that is remembered. The site itself is so well presented, and the exhibition gives new meaning to what may have been read. I find all battlefields to be sad places, and all examples of man, politics, religion, and tyrants causing nothing but grief and sorrow.
We are driving eastward now through Elgin and Nairn to visit one of my favourite places – Baxter’s in Fochaber! I once called in out of season just to pick up a couple (as if) of things, and knowing one or two of the ladies from Trade Shows, was chatting away when a tall well dressed gentleman approached. It was Mr Baxter himself, who was meant to be entertaining the Institute of Directors, but seeing me alone insisted I joined them, and I kid you not, he was one of the most charming, polite, and endearing people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. A true gentleman. We know Baxter’s food is of the best quality, and their visitor centre is everything you would expect it to be and more. I like family owned companies, whatever they are selling, and this one is one of the best.
We are now in whisky country, and it isn’t only the Spey Valley that produces a special malt, or invites you to taste it. Distilleries abound within this region, and your hardest decision could be which one to visit. By this time my car was already full, so I could only squeeze in the odd bottle, but if not packed correctly I was starting to sound like a co-op milk float!
Glenlivet, Macallen, Aberdour, and other well known brands vie with the lesser known, but I would suggest you search not only for the one on your route, but one that can offer a full range of amenities too.
If we headed due east from here, it would take us to the ports of Fraserburgh and Peterhead, the home of some of Scotland’s fishing fleet, as seen over the past few years on the television series, Trawler. These are hard working communities and you can see it in not only their faces but the architecture too, and we suddenly see fish in a whole new light, and appreciate what lies behind the fillet we buy.
Aberdeen is our next port of call, literally, and the Granite City often surprises people with what it can offer. The working harbour area supports the rigs in the North Sea, and North Link operate their ferries to Orkney and Shetland, (more like little cruise ship really). The city sells itself as Aberdeen city and Shire, and can offer 8 art galleries, 16 castles, 12 distilleries, 15 museums, and 20 other visitor attractions. The latter includes cashmere manufactures, biscuit and shortbread makers, and even a narrow gauge railway. Too much choice again!
Inland we could travel by way of Ballater and Braemar, Crathie Church and Balmoral down to Blairgowrie and Perth, where group accommodation is freely available – although not in Balmoral!
The area from Aberdeen down to Dundee is one of rich fertile farming land, and travelling by way of Montrose and Arbroath – both worth exploring – and Carnoustie, home of the championship golf course.
So what do you see Dundee famous for? Jute? Marmalade? Cake? Well I suppose it’s all of these and more – and I don’t mean the rail bridge disaster in 1879.
The harbour area holds two of the world’s most famous wooden ships, as the RRS Discovery, that took Captain Scott on his ill-fated journey to Antarctica is there together with HM Frigate Unicorn, and this 46 gun ship is the oldest floating British built vessel. Guided tours are available on both, including the chance to feel the chill of the Antarctic. Close to the harbour are a couple of good hotels, the Hilton and the Apex, but the city has plenty to choose from. Glamis Castle isn’t too far away, and following the River Tay inland takes us to Perth.
Now we could have travelled from Inverness on the A9 directly to Perth, but then I would had had to pass comment on Aviemore, which whilst full of good hotels, I just don’t get it. Put together water, forest and the right climate and you may see the odd midge. By the billion. I would be quite happy to wander off the main road to Coylumbridge, Carrbridge, or Kingussie, or to travel on the steam railway between Aviemore via The Boat of Garten to Broomhill – a round journey of 20 miles on the Strathspey Steam Railway, but Aviemore itself...?
So now I have avoided that, Perth. Nice as Perth is, with some nice areas by the river, and some good level shopping, and nice hotels of a good standard including The Ramada, Best Western Queens, and Salutation, and it is generally on level ground so easy to get around, I find it a good place to base a tour, and then explore on the coach. One of these excursions has to be to Scone Palace, home of the Earls of Mansfield (no, i don’t know why either) where Kings and Queens of Scotland were crowned for centuries. Robert the Bruce was crowned here in 1306, and the last Charles II in 1651. Just in case you were thinking of borrowing the Stone of Destiny, or the Stone of Scone, tough – it is in safe keeping in Edinburgh Castle.
Before I delve into the capital, I have to mention Leith. Whilst the city fathers do their utmost to preserve the city itself, there has been much generation of the Leith dockland area, which has found itself transformed into one of the best areas to live in, from probably one of the worst. The jewel in the crown – and it’s a real jewel in a real crown, is the Royal Yacht Britannia, which is a MUST VISIT attraction. This most beautiful of crafts is cherished by city and visitors alike, and you can feel history come alive as you stroll around, looking at the furniture, fittings, and memorabilia of Royal and political engagements throughout its history.
And so to Edinburgh. If you want to see a local turning red – mention trams to him. Poor old Edinburgh is going through turmoil over a plan to introduce a tram system, with developers going bust, underestimates for work, and it goes on and on. The latest is that at best nothing will operate before 2012, and the city will be paying for it until at least 2031. This is why for the past few years your coaches have been trapped in never ending road works and diversions. The work on Princess Street alone was due to cost £2m, and ended up costing £8m, so prepare for increases in coach parking fees!!
This glorious city is one of the finest and most popular tourist honey pots in the world, and going by hotel prices, the roads – what is left of them – should be paved in gold. OK, maybe I am being a little harsh, but Edinburgh is expensive, and for that reason alone many group prefer to stay either in the surrounding area, or in a different town altogether and drive in and out as needed.
What the city has, and has in abundance, is sellability. People want to go there and stay there. They want to see the Castle, hear the one o’clock gun, sit in the gardens, admire the monuments and statues, visit the theatres and art galleries, and yes, even go to the Tattoo, Festival, and Book Fair. They know there is accommodation to suit everyone, from backpacker to millionaires, and they know it is a top venue for rugby, football, horse racing and golf. They know the Royal Highland Show will be at Ingliston, and that the shopping is upmarket.
Would I stay on the outskirts and drive the group in and out – not if I could help it. It’s like booking a London weekend and staying in Slough – people who go to Edinburgh want to stay in Edinburgh. The hotel doesn’t have to be on George Street, or have views of The Castle (although it’s nice when they do), but there are plenty of hotels just off the main thoroughfares to still make it viable. I am sure most reading this, if they plan their own tours, will already have a favourite hotel that they have been using for years. To others I advise to take into account not only the cost of coach parking, but the cost of getting the driver to and from his coach. What may surprise you is that one parking operator not only offers free parking during the day, and £15 per night, but has other services too, including one to get the driver back to his hotel! Now i haven’t tried it so no promises, but the Britannia Coach Park looks promising. Now there’s a lesson for London to follow!
We leave Edinburgh by way of the A1, which like Loch Lomond this road is vastly improved from ten or twenty years ago. There are quite a few stretches of dual carriageway, so the old days of getting trapped behind a slow moving vehicle are almost gone. It is worth remembering that on Fridays and Saturdays there can be a great deal of holiday traffic, which will not only affect the A1, but the A68 Melrose/Jedburgh and A697 Coldstream routes too.
Attempting to cover a whole country in one article is a bit challenging, but I hope you have found this journey interesting at the least, and perhaps gained one or two ideas. One thing is certain, Scottish coach holidays are the only way to see the country, be able to see over walls and hedges, and to learn the ways of this proud nation. The colours change with the seasons, and there are few months when they might be a little bleak. The vivid greens of spring, mosaic colours of summer, and the gold of autumn together with the welcome make it very special.
It’s no wonder the Scots wish us to “Haste ye back”
